When it comes to comfort zones, the start line of a UTMB race is very, very far outside of mine. About 6,000 miles away, in fact. I'm standing at the beginning of the shortest race in the UTMB TransLantau on Hong Kong's beautiful Lantau Island. It's a mere 25km, the baby in the series, yet I still feel like I've bitten off way more than I can chew. Everyone around me looks far better conditioned for a whole lot of elevation gain (750m or so) and far more comfortable in their race vests. There are plenty of people with poles, too. Should I have poles?
When what was promised to be an entirely overcast day suddenly breaks out into baking sunshine, I also realise I've not got sunglasses or a hat. Thankfully, just as I'm considering bolting, the race start klaxon sounds and we are off. Running – extremely slowly, for the pancake flat first mile – performs its usual magic. One mile at a time, I tell myself. Enjoy the scenery.
Having arrived a few days earlier at Mui Wo – a sleepy fishing village (or sleepy, anyway, compared to the buzz and urban density of Central Hong Kong) – I've had a chance to adjust a little bit to the heat and humidity, and explore some of the trails we'll be taking in. So the first few miles at least have the benefit of familiarity, heading off the road and up into the hills (and Hong Kong is ALL hills). The landscape shifts rapidly between low scrub, woodland and a more jungle-type terrain. There are countless colourful butterflies flitting effortlessly (lucky them) and dozing water buffalo regard passing runners with a baffled air. They have a point. Why on earth would you run when you could laze in a field?
What everyone's reading
I'm following a line of runners, so there is never any doubt which path to take, but the route is well marked nevertheless. I quickly find out that the hills aren't so much hills as enormous staircases. Staircases designed for giants with an irregular, but huge tread – and I soon realise it's impossible to get into any kind of rhythm. You just have to keep going. Up, and up, and up. And this is only the first big elevation jump – the one that comes at mile 10 looks terrifying.
My gentle trots along the lovely coastal paths in Lantau since I arrived have not prepared me for quite how much I will sweat. I didn't actually know it was possible to sweat this much. How is there any liquid left in my body at all? We constantly reach clearings which I think must be the peak, and yet somehow never are. 'Will this hill ever end?' I ask the man behind me. 'Apparently not!' he says, remarkably cheerful about it.
The first aid station is therefore a hugely welcome sight. They are staffed by sweet yet ever so professional children from the local schools, who greet runners cheerfully and offer to refill water bottles or bladders. Because I'm so used to road running – and shorter distances – the idea of taking a few minutes at an aid station (and not giving two hoots about your pace) is a novel one to me. One I could definitely get used to. There's food on offer, too, but I've never been good at eating on the run. Water is all I want, and when the route out of the aid station immediately takes us over a path above a water reservoir, I entertain a brief daydream of a swan diving in. It's a beautiful opening up in the landscape, with the sea shimmering in the near distance. I try to snap a quick picture on my phone. It turns out to be as overheated as me.
We wind on, exchanging the odd encouraging word when passing, and getting one back in return when passed. At only a few miles in, I was genuinely worried about my ability to finish this race, but by mile 10 – near the fishing village of Pui O, as the second aid station and terrifying hill approaches – I actually feel better. Well, not physically better, just pretty sure I can make it. That second aid station is down a little out and back stretch on tarmac, which sounds nice (Flat! Runnable!), even though it is in the merciless sun.
This time, the local schoolchildren offer me Coke, which they've opened countless large bottles of so as to let the liquid nectar go a little flat. You can leave your cocktails and your vintage champagne: this may be the greatest drink I've ever had in my life. I've heard ultra running friends talk of its power and never been quite sure why. Now I understand. This time, at the urging of a child who seems far more proficient in knowing how to run trail races than me, I fill one bladder with water and the other with Coke. It's that second flask, I'm sure, that gets me up that big hill. Now, there are plenty of readers for whom a couple of hundred metres of elevation gain in a mile is not a lot. For me, it is. It feels endless, but when I finally make it up to the peak, and start to descend, I feel elated. 'It's all downhill now!' calls a marshal. (This was shortly, it turns out, before another short but steep uphill section. But hey, marshals are duty bound to lie cheerfully to you, right?)
It's as difficult to get into a rhythm on the downhills as it is on the ups. With treacherous edges to the huge steps to stop erosion, it would be very easy to trip if you don't concentrate. This is why it's actually quite amusing that I end up completely stacking it, and skinning a knee and one arm, on a totally flat, innocuous, sandy bit of track. I sit on the ground, trying to figure out what hurts, and wondering what on earth happened. Butterfly tripped me up, I reckon. Several runners stop to check I'm okay – which I am, unless embarrassment is now a legitimate running injury.
Luckily, although I am bleeding enough to look slightly hardcore (I hope), there is no damage done and I'm able to put a tiny bit of welly into the last few miles – especially the last stretch on the road back into Mei Wo. Ah, tarmac, my comfort zone! The finish line is buzzing with runners – the very many who have finished in front of me, as well as those coming in from some of the tougher distances. The atmosphere is fantastic, and I sit and take it all in while giving the First Aiders at the finish something to alleviate what looks like a boringly uneventful day for them.
While I couldn't even tell you my time or pace, and I've definitely done some of the slowest miles I've ever clocked up in a race scenario, it's been an incredible experience. And one that may just persuade me to try another, perhaps longer, trail race. As long as it doesn't have stairs.
Race distance: c. 25km or 15.75 miles (on my watch)
Number of finishers: 559
Cut off time: Seven hours
The 2024 UTMB TransLantau takes place on 8-10 November.
While you’re there…
It’s worth building in extra time into your trip so you can see some of Hong Kong’s must-see sights and attractions. The common image of Hong Kong is the cityscape of towering skyscrapers, but the wider island boasts beautiful scenery, parks and outdoor gems. During her stay Kate visited:
The star attraction on Lantau Island is this 34-metre statue, known more commonly as the ‘Big Buddha’ – it’s the world’s second largest outdoor seated bronze Buddha statue. To get there, take the 25-minute cable car to the hilltop where the Buddha sits, while appreciating the views from the glass-bottomed cabin. Finish your trip by visiting the century-old Po Lin Monastery, which is right next to Big Buddha.
Ocean Park
Since opening in 1977, Hong Kong’s theme park has developed into a world-class attraction, delivering fun and fond memories and connecting people with nature. As well as plenty of rides, Ocean Park has been recognised for its conservation work. Of particular interest to Kate, who ran the 2019 London Marathon to raise money for the WWF and holds the world record the fastest marathon in a full body animal costume (female, panda), was the chance to see Ying Ying and Le Le, the park’s giant pandas.
Ng Tung Chai waterfalls
These spectacular waterfalls lie in the foothills of the 957-metre-high Tai Mo Shan, Hong Kong’s tallest peak, and show off the lush, green side of the island. They comprise four separate waterfalls – bottom, middle, main and scatter – each with its own unique character. Standing beneath the forest-shrouded falls is an exhilarating reward after escaping the frantic pace of the city for a few hours and hiking along the sometimes challenging trail to reach them. Bring water, snacks and wear shoes with good grip since the path is slippery near the falls.
Kate stayed at The Hari Hong Kong.
